What to eat on the French Riviera? Check out the local markets

The French Riviera isn’t just a feast for the eyes; it’s a palate-pleasing paradise.

From sun-soaked seaside towns to family-run cafés and bustling markets, the food of the French Riviera is a blend of Mediterranean freshness, Italian pedigree, and Provençal tradition.

These food specialties are a must-try addition to the delicious dining experience you’re going to have.

Socca

A Niçoise classic, but found in Menton and other towns close to the Italian border, Socca is a thin, crispy pancake made from chickpea flour, olive oil, and water. Baked in a wood-fired oven until blistered, it’s best eaten hot, straight from a street vendor.

In Nice, drop by the Cours Saleya market to try it right from the pans that are delivered by bicycle from Chez Thérésa, a local institution.

Pissaladière

I’m not a fan of anchovies, so I don’t eat this myself, but this savory flatbread, similar to a pizza, is a popular snack and street food, topped with onions, anchovies, and black olives. You’ll see it served in square pieces, or sometimes round tartes, in bakeries and at markets all along the French Riviera.

Fougasse

This beautifully shaped bread is quintessentially Provençal and often flavored with olives, herbs, or cheese. The olive is my personal favorite, dipped in local olive oil or a spicy tomato sauce.

Usually shaped like a leaf, or twisted into some kind of decorative swirl you don’t dare try at home, fougasse is eaten by tearing and sharing. I can’t leave the marché without nibbling a few pieces on the way home. Fougasse is commonly found in markets and is also available in bakeries.

Vocab lesson: The word "fougasse" comes from the Latin pain focacious, meaning "hearth bread”. It also sounds a lot like focaccia, non?

Barbajuan

Visitors to the French Riviera flock to Monaco for its glitz, yachts, casinos, and restaurants that reflect the Principality’s cosmopolitan character. Here you’ll find lots of global cuisine and fine-dining from chefs such as Alain Ducasse and the late Joël Robuchon. But I prefer something simpler: a trip to Condamine Market and freshly made barbajuan from A Roca. I could eat them by the dozen (Narrator: She has)

This deep-fried pastry fritter is stuffed with Swiss chard and ricotta, is Monaco’s national food, and is often enjoyed as an appetizer or snack, especially on Monaco's National Day, November 19th. Crispy outside, soft and warm on the inside, and oh-so delicious. Traditional restaurants in Monaco, such as U Cavagnetu will serve them too, but I still think A Roca is tops.

Vocab lesson: Barbajuan means Uncle John in the Monagasque language.

Specialty food of Monaco and the French Riviera — *One of my favorite snacks: barbajuan, from A Roca inside at Monaco’s Condamine Market*

Bouillabaisse

The French Riviera’s most iconic fisherman’s stew is made with several types of Mediterranean fish, saffron, garlic, and tomatoes. If done right, a restaurant will serve it with crusty bread and rouille, a garlicy, spicy condiment made with a base of breadcrumbs, garlic, chili peppers, and olive oil (and sometimes saffron for color and flavor). The rouille is then spread on toasted baguette slices and floated on top of the bouillabaisse.

Marseille’s Old Port is the traditional place to try it, and Chez Fonfon is a living ode to bouillabaisse, but you can find it in many restaurants along the French Riviera.

Specialty foods of the French Riviera include seafood stew called Bouillabaisse — *Traditional bouillabaisse is sered with a slice of toasted bread slathered in rouille*

Salade Niçoise

Although this salad seems to have made its way onto mainstream menus in the USA, it is a dish deeply tied to Nice (hence its name).

Refreshing and filling on a hot day, the salad is a meal in itself, featuring tomatoes, hard-boiled eggs, olives, anchovies or tuna, and crisp vegetables, often green beans, all dressed and tossed in olive oil.

You’d be hard-pressed to find a brasserie in Nice that doesn’t serve a Salade Nicoise.

Petits Farcis

These are my go-to when I can’t think of anything to make, or I just want something comforting, and I make them at home in the USA too. I love them.

The name Petits Farcis literally means “little stuffed [things]”, and that sums it up, except the ‘things are little vegetables like round zucchinis, tomatoes, squash, peppers, and sometimes eggplants. These veggies are hollowed out and filled with a savory stuffing of ground meat (pork, beef, or veal), garlic, herbs. Sometimes rice or cheese is added, but I prefer them without these additions.

Pop them in the oven with a little extra tomato sauce drizzled and bake until the veg is soft and the mixture is a little charred on top.

A popular specialty food of the French Riviera are the stuffed vegetables known as Petits Farcis — *Petits Farcis are a go-to of mine in France and in the USA because they are easy-peazy to make, and always délicieux*

Pan Bagnat

A Niçoise salad transformed into a hearty sandwich inside a round country bread. Street vendors and bakeries in Nice sell them grab-and-go style, which make them perfect for a French Riviera beach picnic or for hikes into the hinterlands.

Panisse

A savory fritter made from chickpea flour, water, salt, and olive oil.

The mixture is cooked into a thick meal, similar to polenta, then chilled, sliced into square sticks, and finally fried or baked until crispy on the outside and soft on the inside. In the USA, you’ll sometimes see Panisse ‘fries’ on a menu. They are delicious when dipped in aioli or a creamy sauce.

Ratatouille

Yes, it’s a cute movie, but on the French Riviera, it’s also a slow-cooked vegetable medley of eggplant, zucchini, peppers, onions, and tomatoes, and Provence’s comfort food. Provençal bistros across the French Riviera, especially in smaller inland villages, often make it as a rustic and homey side dish that pairs well with fresh fish and meat.

*The Cours Saleya market in Nice and the socca from Chez Theresa is a gourmet must.* Photo by Jeff Whyte

Aioli Provençal

A garlicky, eggy emulsion served with boiled vegetables, salt cod, sometimes shellfish, and frankly, just about anything you don’t mind dipping into this homemade garlic sauce. It’s like mayonnaise, but so much better than the Miracle Whip I grew up eating.

Sweet Treats: Calissons, Nougat & Tarte Tropézienne

Calissons: Diamond-shaped confections from Aix-en-Provence, made from ground almonds, candied fruits, and coated with royal icing.
Nougat : A specialty of honey, nuts, and egg whites, usually cut into blocks. Look for artisan nougat stalls at markets around the French Riviera.
Tarte Tropézienne: A cream-filled brioche topped with sugar crystals. Legend has it that Brigitte Bardot gave the dessert its name. There are a few copies out there, but the OG is from the bakery of the same name, La Tarte Tropezienne, in Saint-Tropez.

Nougat is sold at markets on the French Riviera, especially at Christmas — *Nougat is popular at markets, especially at Christmastime*

Drinks: Pastis & Rosé

Pastis (Marseille & Provence): The anise-flavored aperitif, diluted with water and sipped slowly in the afternoon sun.
Rosé (Côtes de Provence): Crisp, pale, and world-renowned, this easy-to-drink wine is everywhere along the French Riviera, from beach clubs to tasting rooms and local shops. See my recommendations on where to sample it near Saint-Tropez.

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Authentic Food Specialties to Try on the French Riviera