Why September is the Best Month in Saint-Tropez
When I mention that I have a small pied-à-terre near Saint-Tropez, most people picture me swilling champagne on a yacht, rubbing elbows with A-listers. Let’s be clear, I do love a good champagne-swilling sesh, but I’ve yet to be invited to do it on a yacht or with a celebrity (Mr. and Mrs. Clooney—-I’m free anytime!).
I’m not going to lie, the rollicking beach parties along Pampelonne Bay and jet-set social scene absolutely live up to the hype, and I’m here for it, but it’s far from the whole story. I’ve been coming here for nearly two decades, long enough to see restaurants come and go, watch the last leaves fall from the plane trees, and stroll through near-empty streets at Christmas, when only the ice rink on Place des Lices is happening. But Saint-Tropez in September gives me all the Oh! La! La! feels.
With fewer crowds and more room to breathe, the village relaxes into itself. There’s a soupcon of fall in the air, but just enough splash of summer glamour remains to remind you where you are.
A sailor’s den, an artistic muse, a Provençal village, and a Hollywood haunt—each thread creates the tapestry Saint-Tropez today, and September is when this delightful, sherbet-hued village lives up to its legend as one of the best villages to visit on the French Riviera.
September in St. Tropez means world-class sailing regattas
Maritime Magic
Though the high season is in retreat, the excitement doesn’t disappear. September in Saint-Tropez is all about sailing and a dip into the village’s maritime legacy.
With two fantastic events in town, the atmosphere is both festive and refined. Yes, you can buy tickets and sit in the grandstands, but I recommend just going to soak up the atmosphere. You’ll still be able to see the races from the first. Up first is France’s only SailGP event, the ROCKWOOL France Sail Grand Prix, taking place over two days in mid-September, with 12 foiling catamarans racing at breakneck speed mere feet from the harbor wall. Meanwhile, Les Voiles de Saint-Tropez, one of the Med’s most prestigious regattas, blows in at the end of the month, bringing a spectacle of wind, water, and sportsmanship to the village as dozens of classic and modern sailing yachts slice through the Gulf of St. Tropez’s sapphire waters.
I highly recommend dropping by Le Sube along the port. The sailing-themed bar is old school all the way, but also has prime time viewing of the yachts and sailboats, if you can score one of the few tables on the balcony.
St. Tropez is part of the vast Côtes de Provence wine region, the world capital of rosé
Rosé All Day (and Night)
Rosé all day is a meme, a mantra, and definitely a way of life on the French Riviera, especially during summer, and especially in Saint-Tropez. But some might be surprised to learn that just outside Saint-Tropez are undulating hills dangling with grapes used to make the area’s favorite pink drink.
But more than a beloved elixir for the well-heeled and day-drinkers, the wines produced in the region are some of the finest in the world. The wine-producing region of Côtes de Provence, in which Saint-Tropez is situated, is considered the world's rosé capital due to its long tradition of winemaking, favorable Mediterranean climate, and focus on producing aromatic rosés that have set the standard for what a good rosé should taste like.
Every menu in town will have a local selection, as will the wine shops and even grocery stores (sometimes for as little as €8-€10. However, if you want to head to the source, September in Saint-Tropez offers something extra special, as the harvest season, which spans from mid-August to the end of September, is in full swing.
With family-run estates, wine bars in the vineyards, and tour companies organizing cooking classes, vineyard lunches, and vintage car tours, there are plenty of ways to keep the rosé flowing all day!
Read my guide for wine tasting around Saint-Tropez.
Ratchet up Your Step Count
Saint-Tropez has a wild side, and I’m not just talking about dancing on tables at midnight. Because Saint-Tropez’s weather in September is just right, one of my favorite things to do is hike along the Sentier du Littoral, the coastal trail that snakes along nearly all of France’s vast coastlines.
In Saint-Tropez, the path hugs the peninsula’s rugged shoreline, dips through pine-scented woods, passes in front of some pretty amazing villas (knock! knock! knock!), and will take you to some secret beaches and turquoise coves too.
FYI: The path isn’t even, and in some spots, it requires you to summon your inner mountain goat and scamper over some rocks. But you go as far as you want and remember, there’s no shame in turning around and finding a café!
Ready to go? Start near the Tour du Portalet. Keep your eyes peeled for subtle dashes of yellow paint on wooden signs marked pietons (pedestrians) or Sentier du Littoral—they’re your breadcrumbs on this coastal adventure. En route, you’ll pass Saint-Tropez’s Marine Cemetery, one of the rare seaside cemeteries in France, where village residents, soldiers, and French notables such as the singer Pierre Bachelet, filmmaker Roger Vadim, actress Thérèse Dorny, and painter André Dunoyer de Segonzac were laid to rest.
After a few hours, return to the village and reward yourself with lunch or dinner at beloved La Ponche, or sink your toes in the sand with a chilled glass of something local in hand at Les Graniers. Either way, you’ve earned it.
“Tip: September can still be hot, so plan your hikes for early morning.”
St. Tropez’s Tuesday and Saturday market on Place des Lices is a perfect place to eat and souvenir shop. Read my guide to food specialties on the French Riviera.
What Else to Do in Saint-Tropez?
Art lovers can meander through galleries hidden behind old stone walls and pastel shutters, but don’t skip the Musée de l’Annonciade. Housed in a 16th-century chapel right on the port, this gem offers a surprising treasure trove of Post-Impressionist art. Expect masterpieces by Signac, Henri Matisse, and others who found their inspiration on the French Riviera. The best part of going in September? You’ll practically have the place to yourself!
The weekly Saint-Tropez market is a must, held on Tuesday and Saturday at the Place des Lices. You’ll find lots of produce, cheese, bread, prepped food, olives, and other picnic staples, along with clothing, sunglasses, baskets, tableware, and a whole lot more. The earlier the better. I find that by 9 a.m., especially during the summer, it can be uncomfortably crowded and even a little hazardous, given that people push their strollers and bring their leashed dogs into the narrow passageways.
History buffs with a bent for old cannons and killer views should climb to the citadel, a 17th-century stone fortress turned museum chronicling Saint-Tropez’s rich seafaring past.
Just outside the town is the palm-fringed park surrounding the Chateau de la Moutte. This Provençal bastide once belonged to Émile Ollivier, Napoleon III's last Prime Minister and a man who, I can only assume, recognized a sweet real estate deal when he saw one. Today, visitors can explore the abode on guided afternoon tours, which include the library, home to over 4,000 volumes, featuring works by Hugo, Balzac, Voltaire, and Rousseau. The castle also opens its doors to the public during the European Heritage Days, held the third weekend of September.
Be sure to wander the narrow cobbled streets loaded with high-end shops and offbeat boutiques. For the ultimate September-in-SaintTropez souvenir, drop by Rondini, where artisans have been handcrafting leather sandals since 1927, and will fit them to your feet on the spot. Because if you're going to stroll, you might as well do it in shoes as timeless as the town itself.
Book a sunset cruise, Pampelonne Bay tour, or get up close to some of the races during Les Voiles aboard Brigatin II.
Salama Saint-Tropez has been a longtime favorite of mine for its Moroccan cuisine and stunning setting
Where to Eat in Saint-Tropez
Like fashion, dining spots ebb and flow, but the classics never go out of style. What I love about September in Saint-Tropez is that the brasserie tables and barstools start to be filled with locals again, returning to reclaim their turf and catch up on town gossip. There are plenty of places to grab a high-end meal or a casual bite, and you might even snag a good table this month, sans reservation!
I’ve been a fan of Salama since it was tucked into a tiny space on a tiny street off the port. It’s now in a different location, gorgeous and grand, and an ideal place to go with a group or en couple, for a romantic dinner. I go at least once a year, but usually twice or three times. They have two seatings: 8:00 p.m. and 10:30 p.m. Not being of the night owl ilk, I choose the earlier.
Grab a coffee or lunch at Le Sporting and watch fierce pétanque rivalries unfurl under the century-old plane trees on Place des Lices, or venture out to Chez Camille on the wild end of Pampelonne Beach for a homemade bouillabaisse
Le Sénéquier is an institution in Saint-Tropez and the best people-watching perch on the port. The red awning and furniture are unmissable.
Read my guide to food specialties of the French Riviera here.
Where to Stay in Saint-Tropez
There are numerous hotels and guesthouses in Saint-Tropez, and some stay open all year. Here are my favorite hotels.
Getting to St. Tropez is easy aboard the Bateaux Verts (the green boats) from Ste. Maxime
How to Get to St. Tropez
